Where To Eat in Madeira, Portugal
April 15, 2008 by foodieguide
When I went to Madeira last July, I didn’t do much research about where to eat, which I would normally do when planning a trip. Instead, I took it easy and turned to a Lisbon-based Portuguese friend for tips. He spends a lot of time in Madeira, and being a fellow foodie (we’ve been to some amazing restaurants in Lisbon with him), his opinions on great food are rated highly by us and mutual friends.
Since then, quite a few people have asked me where they should eat in Madeira. So, although I’ve written reviews on all the restaurants I visited (click on links to read full reviews), I thought I would summarise where I ate in Funchal, the capital. As the Madeira archipelago is in the Atlantic Ocean, 1000 km away from its mother country Portugal, fresh fish is naturally in great abundance (as is the local Madeira wine).
One of the two restaurants recommended by our friend was Doca do Cavacas, perched on a clifftop with breathtaking views. The terrace is a lovely place to sit and have dinner, but booking in advance is advisable, otherwise you might end up indoors, which didn’t look very pleasant. Delicious, fresh seafood dominated the menu. I was particularly impressed with my gigantic starter of grilled prawns, and most of us tried the black scabbard, a Madeiran specialty. Here, they like to serve it with grilled banana or mango.
The other recommended restaurant was O Jango, in the historic Old Town. The area is quaint, with numerous little restaurants down cobbled streets. Had we not known about O Jango, it would have been hard to pick a good place, and quite a few were packed with tourists. The waiter brings out a platter of their fresh fish of the day for selection, to be cooked any way you prefer. This is priced by the kilo. Again, black scabbard featured on the menu and it was absolutely delicious. O Jango is great value for money and definitely not a tourist trap. Book in advance as it’s small.
Not to be missed is traditional afternoon tea at Reid’s Palace Hotel, located on a clifftop and blessed with spectacular ocean views. If you want a table on the covered terrace, which is the place to sit, then you should book in advance, even if it’s just a couple of days before. Most people were smartly dressed for the event. And shorts are not allowed. It’s expensive (26 Euros per person last year), but very memorable.
Later that evening (it was unbelievable that we were even hungry!), we returned to Reid’s to eat at their Italian restaurant, Villa Cipriani, which is connected to Hotel Cipriani in Venice, Italy. Again, we had reserved a table on the terrace, from where we watched the sunset. Even though the food wasn’t as exceptional as it could have been (superb Taleggio ravioli starter, but my sea bass was slightly overcooked), and it was the most expensive meal of the trip, it is recommended if you’re looking for a romantic venue.
A trip to the food market Mercado dos Lavradores is also worthwhile, as you’ll see the fresh produce before it ends up on your plate. It’s where the locals shop, although it can be a rather touristy destination and all the stall-holders were offering small samples of fruit in order to attract customers. There is an amazing herb and spice stall, where we bought some aromatic rose peppercorns. The fish market section is particularly impressive, with giant hunks of fresh tuna and many Atlantic Ocean species. The earlier you turn up, the more you will see.
Have a wonderful time! I’d love to hear about your food experiences in Madeira…
Helen Yuet Ling Pang @ World Foodie Guide
Contact details:
Doca do Cavacas
Estrada Monumental
Ponta de Cruz
Funchal
Madeira
Tel: +351 291 762 057
O Jango
Rua de Santa Maria 166
9060-291 Funchal
Madeira
Tel: +351 291 221 280
www.ojango.net
Villa Cipriani
Reid’s Palace Hotel
Estrada Monumental 139
9000-098 Funchal
Madeira
Tel: +351 291 717 171
Fax: +351 291 717 177
reservations@reidspalace.com
www.reidspalace.com
Reid’s Palace Hotel
Estrada Monumental 139
9000-098 Funchal
Madeira
Tel: +351 291 717 171
Fax: +351 291 717 177
reservations@reidspalace.com
www.reidspalace.com/web/omad/omad_c3c1_terrace.jsp
Yes, my favorite restaurant is also O Jango. However I have more favorites (where you find more locals than tourists) both in Funchal and outside the city.
Obrigado (Thank you) for sharing your views with us.
These pictures are beautiful. We’ve been wanting to go to Portugal for a long time… it’s on our list. Those shrimp looks amazing!
They were sooo delicious - fresh, firm and crunchy! I bet you guys have a long list of travel destinations. I certainly do…